Thursday, December 25, 2008

11. Chiang Mai, Thailand

Sat, Oct 25 Chiang Mai, Thailand

We have completed the cruise, we have completed our Bangkok add-on, and now we are setting off for new adventures in Part 2 of our Asian experience: Exploring Thailand. We bid goodbye to ship mates Cindy/Curt, Stacy/Wally, Carol/David and Catherine/Roy and head for northern Thailand in a 90 minute flight.

But first, we have to deal with some luggage issues… We are travelling on this trip with 7 suitcases and 2 carry-ons (one of them being the laptop). At any time, 7 suitcases is a lot, but we have cold weather clothes (Alaska in Sep and Beijing in Nov), hot weather clothes (Thailand, Vietnam, Singapore, Hong Kong), dressy clothes (9 formal nights on the ship), lots of sweaters, pants and shoes (for the in between times). Seven bags is not a problem on Air Canada, where Don gets 4 by having Elite passenger status, and Colleen gets 3 by flying (reward) Business Class. There is also no problem bringing 7 suitcases on a cruise. However, other airlines are less generous, and we stick with Star Alliance partners to optimize the allowance. To Chiang Mai, we are on Thai Air, and Air Canada partner (and a fabulous airline) where Don is permitted 3 bags, and Colleen 2 for reward Business. Accordingly, before we board the plane, we stow 3 suitcases of formal and cold weather stuff at the safe Left Luggage lock-up for re-collection when we next come through Bangkok 13 days from now!

Chiang Mai is Thailand’s 2nd largest city at 900,000, woefully trailing Bangkok’s 12M, but is the largest and most culturally significant city in the north, and is located 700 km/435 mi north of Bangkok, among some of the highest mountains in the country.

Chiang Mai was founded in 1296, and was a strategic location on ancient trade routes. In recent years, Chiang Mai has become increasingly modern; with dozens of topnotch hotels at half the price of Bangkok’s, and attracts many foreign visitors each year.

Don’s former Fisheries and Oceans Canada colleague, Dave Meerburg, recently bought a home in Chiang Mai with his Thai wife, Pim, and they greeted us at the airport. Little did we know he and Pim were about to put their own lives on hold for 6 days while they ferried us (and cruise buddies Steph & Peter who were also visiting Chiang Mai) around the area! Thank you, Dave and Pim!

After refreshments at Dave and Pim’s home, we checked in to a wonderful little boutique hotel just outside the moat-ed heart of this easy-to-get-around city, called the Puripunn Hotel, then with Steph & Peter too,.went up to the lovely Palaad Tawanron restaurant with its waterfall in the hills above Chiang Mai.

[REMINDER: Double click on any picture to enlarge it]
OK, who wants to ride an elephant? OUR hands are up, so Day 2 saw us atop some really big elephants at the Elephant Conservation Center south of the city. We were certain the basket carrying us would slide off and we would be crushed, but we survived the terrific 60 minute ride through the nearby jungle.. The mahout spoke no English and continued to prod our beast every time he paused for some vegetation, so his tip was limited as was Colleen's patience with him… The Center also had an elephant hospital on site and we saw some poor creatures on the mend.

Later in the day, we drove a little further south to Pim’s home village, Soem Ngam, to witness some local rural festivities and meet some of her relatives.

In the evening, we had another highlight of our Chiang Mai visit: lighting paper sky lanterns - called khoom loys - near Dave’s house. These beautiful 3 feet by 18 inch white paper cylinders fill with hot air generated by a burning micro-fire log. They ascend gracefully into the clear night sky, trailing a 2 foot string of firecrackers and sparklers, and taking away the senders’ evil spirits (which will then of course land on some unfortunate’s home when the fire burns out…).


[This is a video. Click the arrow at left to start it]

They are a mesmerizing sight. Great fun. Dangerous and high risk, but then as Dave says: "Hey, this is Thailand!". Colleen wanted to bring some home for the cottage, but decided we'd likely be arrested as arsonists.

As mentioned before, Thailand is a devoutly Buddhist country, and there are colourful wats/temples of varying size and importance everywhere – far more abundant than churches in Canada.




The next day we visited several beautiful ones, including the famous Doi Suthep, some 400 steps up from the parking area near the summit of Suthep Mountain, just outside Chiang Mai.

We sought out jewelry treasures at a large central market, then had a wonderful (but rough) Thai massage at a spa Pim recommended. Later, for a terrific 4 course dinner for 6, including wine and spirits, and Thai music by 2 different bands, in a very nice restaurant, we spent $65US… total !! And Dave said we would try to do better the next night!

Colleen and Steph decided it was finally time for some serious silk shopping. Peter and Don disagreed but were overruled. A large establishment called Jolie Femme fit the requirement perfectly. Not only did we see a live demonstration of the stages of making silk - from the silk worms eating the mulberry leaves, the subsequent cocoons being boiled, dried and unraveled, rewound, combined, twisted, dyed, etc – but we saw actual crafts-ladies at actual wooden looms weaving the incredibly beautiful silk from those cocoons that Colleen subsequently bought and had transformed into a beautiful jacket, pants, and hand-beaded camisole, which were delivered to the Puripunn 24 hours later! Incredible operation.

Next door was a factory making furniture and gorgeous large patio parasols. Chiang Mai has a 200 year old tradition of handcrafting large umbrellas from plant fibers, and bamboo frame spokes, and then hand painting them. After you see how complicated it is to make one of them, well of course you have to buy one…



Let's talk public health and safely: to say that it is somewhat less developed than in Canada is an understatement. Apart from the tolerance for crazy driving, there are also steps and ledges with no handrails, a few potholes of some size, and occasionally sidewalks with gapping holes and no barriers!
In 2006, for the 50th anniversary of the King’s reign, Chiang Mai convened a magnificent Floral exposition - the biggest horticultural show ever in SE Asia – called the Royal Flora Ratchaphruek. Some 2000+ plants and 2 million (!!) tropical plants we on display for the 20,000 visitors that arrived each day of the 3 month show. An impressive display of tropicals still remains, and in 85 degree heat, we toured the site by a little tram/train. Dave thought it was time we saw more of the hinterland, and in the afternoon we took a scenic drive around the winding, beautiful hills and valleys below Mt Suthep, on Mae Sa Road.




Day 6 of our northern Thailand was a day of rest around the Puripunn’s pool, and an evening of lighting off more khoom loys at Dave’s house

Chiang Mai was terrific, and we would definitely consider spending a winter there some year. Rest up, Dave and Pim, because we'll be back!

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